

Ficus Nitida - Ficus 'Indian Laurel'
from $49.99
Introducing the Ficus Nitida Column - Indian Laurel
The Ficus Nitida Column is the perfect solution for adding vertical elegance and greenery to your space. This exceptional variety of Ficus Nitida has been carefully cultivated to exhibit a stunning columnar growth habit, making it an excellent choice for those seeking fast-growing, full privacy hedge
Appearance and Uses
Size: The Ficus Nitida Column stands tall and narrow, reaching an impressive height of 10 to 30 feet, while its width measures between 3 to 5 feet. It’s ideal for tight areas, maximizing green space even in limited settings.
Hedge Planting: To create a hedge, plant Ficus Nitida Columns 3 to 5 feet apart. With pruning, they can be maintained at a smaller size to prevent invasive root growth.
Foliage: This plant features glossy, dark green foliage that adds lushness to any environment. Its dense leaves create a captivating display that will serve as a focal point in any landscape or indoor space.
Growing Conditions
Sunlight: The Ficus Nitida Column thrives in warm, tropical climates, preferring full sun but tolerating partial shade.
Climate: While it performs best in moderate temperatures, it may require protection in colder regions to ensure optimal growth and vitality.
Versatile Uses
The Ficus Nitida Column is highly versatile and can be used in a variety of settings:
Vertical Accents: Create stunning vertical accents by lining driveways or framing entrances.
Privacy Screens: Plant in rows to establish beautiful privacy screens for outdoor spaces.
Container Growing: Its compact form makes it suitable for containers, ideal for patios, balconies, or smaller areas that need a touch of elegance.
Root Concerns: Ficus trees have invasive roots, which can potentially cause damage to surrounding walls and walkways. This can be mitigated by pruning to keep them smaller or using a root barrier during planting.
Alternative Option
Ligustrum Japonica Texanum (Wax Leaf Privet): For those concerned about invasive roots, the Wax Leaf Privet is a great alternative. It does not have invasive roots and may be more appropriate for growing near concrete sidewalks and patios.
Ficus Nitida is available in 15 gallon size containers in columnar form that are about 6 feet tall planted. 25 gallon size is also available and about 9 feet tall by 2 feet wide when planted.


Italian Cypress - Cupressus sempervirens
from $75.00
Italian Cypress Information and Care
The Italian Cypress is a striking tree. It can grow to 100 feet tall over a long lived 1000 years. A remarkable plant that is an asset to any landscape designers tool box. Whether utilized to accent design features such as sculptures and fountains, or to create a tall boundary in the background of a formal garden, the Italian Cypress is a marvelous plant that has been cultivated as an ornament for ages.
To create a hedge, plant in a linear row at least 3 - 5 feet apart. Plant in the full sun and in soil that drains well. Regularly irrigate newly planted trees till they establish. Irrigate deep so that water saturates the roots about 2 feet down. The frequency to irrigate depends on the weather. During the warm Spring and hot Summers, water young plants about 2- 3 times per week. Reduce the frequency of irrigation to once or twice (1 - 2x) per week in the Fall and Winter while the weather is cool. Provide enough water to percolate the soil and saturate with water the root zone so the soil moisture is at field capacity. Water deeply to keep plants hydrated and healthy to establish well.
Italian Cypress are hardy plants, but spider mites are a common pest that can be fatal. Treatments include miticides that are available in soluble form as a foliar sprays and drench to apply to roots, as well as granular forms that can be spread. Also, cultural practices like removal of weeds, debris and overall cleanliness helps manage this pest. Italian Cypress are ancient for good reason. They are durable, resilient, and can live long when taken care of properly.
Italian Cypress plants are available in 5 gallon, 15 gallon, and 24" Box containers.
Discounts are available on bulk orders.

Japanese Boxwood
from $4.50
Japanese Boxwood is the most popular to make short hedge that always has leaves. It’s very common in formal garden since they are so easy to prune to shape.
Japanese boxwood is usually planted about 1.5 ft or more part; Either in straight or curved lines.
In Los Angeles and Southern California, they are often used in formal and mediterranean residential landscapes .
Usually, mature plants are kept about 3 feet tall or shorter. The boxwood foliage are tiny, bright green, leaves.Trim them to have a square shape. Plant shorter ground cover planted in front of this border, and medium size shrubs, like roses, behind.


Podocarpus Gracilior
from $75.00
Podocarpus Gracilior For Sale
At Paradise Nursery, Podocarpus Gracilior is available in tree and columnar forms. Grown in 5 gallon, 15 gallon, and 24" Box containers all year round. Contact us to confirm availability and request photos.
Information and Care
Podocarpus are also best used to create a fast growing hedge. Plant under at least 4 hours of full sun or partial shade. Plant in any soil that drains well. Amend with a high quality planting mix and fertilizer. Water newly installed plants regularly, about twice per week until they establish. When the weather is cool, reduce the times you water. Create a good well around the roots zone to hold the water. Provide enough water so that soil moisture reaches field capacity.
Maintenance
To create a clean formal hedge, use an electric trimmer to shape to the desired height. This will also remove their flowers and fruit.
Fertilizer
Spring is the best time to fertilize. Use an all purpose plant food, such as a granular 15-15-15 NPK. This is also known as triple 15. These slow release often last for about 2 months. So reapply during the Spring and Summer season.
Common and Botanical Name:
Podocarpus Gracilior has been renamed to Afrocarpus Gracilior, but is still sold as Podocarpus. The common name of Fern Pine refers to their unique fern like foliage.
Foliage
Their foliage have spaced out, 4" long narrow leaflets, as opposed to the dense leaflets of the Macrophylum.
Flowers, and Fruit
The flower and fruit are both yellow, not showy. To prevent this, cut off the flower with an electric trimmer in the Spring. Otherwise, the small berry fruit is soft with a seed inside in the Summer.
Compatibility and USDA Hardiness Zones:
Native to Africa, the Fern Pine thrives in a warm climate such as the Southern US. Podocarpus are drought and smog tolerant. They are also cold-hardy to as low as 15 degrees F temp.
Pest Management
Fern Pines resist most common pests. Although aphids, scale, and mold can be a minor problem. Neem oil is a good organic pesticide and fungicide.


Wax Leaf Privet (Ligustrum Japonicum Texanum)
$65.00
Ligustrum Japonicum Texanum - Waxleaf Privet Care and Information
A Ligustrum hedge is a great way to create privacy! We recommend to plant them about 3ft apart from each other. If planted in good soil with proper drainage, they will do great in full sun and partially shaded areas. A Ligustrum privacy hedge is a great way to easily block views, wind, noise, and/or create a boundary. The Wax Leaf Privet grows at a moderate rate (1-2 ft per year) depending on soil, watering schedule and sun exposure. Once established, they are very hardy shrubs.
Wax leaf privets are relatively drought-tolerant once established. They can be sensitive to heavy pruning, so it's important to only trim them lightly to maintain their shape. Overall, the wax leaf privet is a popular choice for hedges and screens; due to its attractive foliage, fast growth rate, and tolerance of a variety of growing conditions.
Texas privet is another common name for the wax leaf privet (Ligustrum Japonicum 'Texanum'). This tree is native to Japan, Korea, and China, it's widely used as a hedge or screen plant in landscaping.
Texas privet has similar characteristics to the wax leaf privet; with glossy dark green leaves that are waxy and leathery in texture. It produces fragrant white flowers in the spring, and can grow up to 10-15 feet tall and 6-8 feet wide.
The name "Texas privet" may be used to distinguish this variety from other types of privet that are commonly grown in other regions. It is important to note that the use of the common name can be confusing. It is best to use the scientific name: Ligustrum Japonicum 'Texanum.'
Plant Description
Size & Spacing
Planting
Sunlight
Watering
Fertilizing
Pruning
Pests
Hedges For Sale
Hedges are used to create a fence or boundary for privacy or as a wind break. Ficus and Ligustrum are the most commonly used in Los Angeles. Ficus grow very large quickly and have very big and aggressive roots. Do not plant ficus near concrete, buildings, sidewalks, walls and similar features because roots may cause damage. Also called the Wax Leaf Privet - Ligustrum tex. look like ficus but only grow to 8 to 15 feet tall and do no have big roots. Japanese Boxwoods are used to create low hedges to form borders or boundaries. Growing as evergreens, plants are generally trimmed a box shape. Grow in the full sun and well drained soils. Water once to twice a week in the Spring to Summer until established. Flowers are inconspicuous and usually trimmed off. Use to block unsightly objects or add greenery to your landscape. Easy to grow with high survival rates.
When planting fruit trees, spacing is crucial for their healthy growth and optimal fruit production. Here's a brief instruction on size and spacing:
Spacing Between Trees:
Spacing Between Trees:
- Standard-sized fruit trees typically require spacing of 20 to 25 feet between each tree.
- Semi-dwarf varieties may need spacing of 15 to 20 feet, while dwarf fruit trees can be spaced closer, around 10 to 15 feet apart.
- If planting multiple rows of fruit trees, maintain spacing between rows to allow for adequate sunlight penetration and airflow.
- Rows should typically be spaced 25 to 30 feet apart for standard-sized trees, and 15 to 20 feet apart for semi-dwarf and dwarf varieties.
- Consider the mature height and spread of the fruit trees when determining spacing.
- Ensure enough space between trees and other structures to accommodate their growth without crowding.
- Plant fruit trees in rows with the north to south orientation to maximize sunlight exposure on both sides of the trees.
- Avoid planting fruit trees too close to buildings, fences, or other structures, as their roots may cause damage over time.
- Prepare the planting area by loosening the soil and incorporating organic matter to improve drainage and fertility.
- Plant fruit trees at the same depth as they were in the nursery container, ensuring that the graft union (if present) is above the soil level.
Step One:
Soil and Planting: Plant in soil that drains well. Dig a hole that is as deep as the tree’s roots and at least twice as wide.
Step Two:
Place the tree in the hole and backfill around the plant’s roots with a mixture of the native soil and high-quality planting mix that has washed sand and organic fertilizer.
Step Three:
Create a basin around the roots drip zone so that water collects. Water deeply until the roots and nearby soil is saturated and reaches field capacity.
Understanding sunlight requirements is crucial for the successful growth and fruit production of fruit trees. Here's a brief instruction on sunlight requirements:
Full Sun Exposure:
Full Sun Exposure:
- Most fruit trees thrive in full sun, which typically means they need at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day.
- Choose a planting location that receives ample sunlight throughout the day, preferably in a spot with southern or western exposure.
- Sunlight is essential for photosynthesis, the process by which plants convert sunlight into energy to fuel growth and fruit production.
- Adequate sunlight promotes healthy leaf development, flowering, and fruit ripening in fruit trees.
- Avoid planting fruit trees in areas with excessive shade from buildings, tall trees, or other structures, as this can inhibit growth and reduce fruit production.
- Trees planted in shaded areas may produce fewer fruits, have slower growth rates, and be more susceptible to diseases and pests.
- Ensure that fruit trees are spaced appropriately to allow sunlight to reach all parts of the tree, including the canopy, branches, and fruiting spurs.
- Prune surrounding trees or shrubs that may shade fruit trees and obstruct sunlight.
- Monitor changes in sunlight exposure throughout the year, as seasonal variations in sun angle and tree foliage can affect light availability.
- Adjust planting locations or prune surrounding vegetation as needed to maintain optimal sunlight exposure for fruit trees.
Instructions on watering fruit trees:
Establishment Period:
Establishment Period:
- During the first year after planting, fruit trees require regular watering to establish strong root systems.
- Water newly planted fruit trees deeply and frequently, providing enough moisture to keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged.
- In general, fruit trees should be watered deeply once or twice a week, depending on soil type, weather conditions, and tree species.
- Adjust the frequency of watering based on rainfall, temperature, and soil moisture levels to prevent both under-watering and over-watering.
- Water fruit trees deeply to encourage deep root growth and drought tolerance.
- Apply water slowly and evenly to ensure that it penetrates the soil to a depth of at least 12 to 18 inches.
- Use drip irrigation, soaker hoses, or watering bags to deliver water directly to the root zone of fruit trees, minimizing water loss through evaporation and runoff.
- Avoid overhead watering, as it can promote fungal diseases and waste water by spraying foliage instead of reaching the root system.
- Water fruit trees in the early morning or late afternoon to reduce water loss through evaporation and minimize stress on the trees during the hottest part of the day.
- Avoid watering fruit trees during windy or extremely hot conditions, as water may evaporate quickly before it can be absorbed by the roots.
- Monitor soil moisture regularly by checking soil moisture levels with a moisture meter or by conducting a simple soil moisture test using your finger.
- Adjust watering practices based on soil moisture levels and weather conditions to ensure that fruit trees receive adequate moisture throughout the growing season.
- During periods of drought or prolonged dry spells, increase the frequency and duration of watering to prevent drought stress and maintain tree health.
- Consider applying a layer of mulch around the base of fruit trees to conserve soil moisture and reduce water loss through evaporation.
Instructions on fertilizing fruit trees:
Timing of Fertilization:
Timing of Fertilization:
- Fertilize fruit trees in early spring, just before new growth begins, to provide essential nutrients for the upcoming growing season.
- Avoid fertilizing fruit trees late in the growing season, as it may stimulate late-season growth that is susceptible to winter damage.
- Choose a balanced fertilizer specifically formulated for fruit trees, such as a 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 NPK (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) fertilizer.
- Consider using organic fertilizers, such as compost, aged manure, or organic fertilizer blends, to promote soil health and reduce the risk of chemical buildup.
- Apply fertilizer evenly around the base of the fruit tree, extending beyond the drip line of the branches.
- Avoid placing fertilizer directly against the trunk of the tree, as it may cause root burn or damage to the tree.
- Follow the recommended application rates provided on the fertilizer label or based on the specific needs of the fruit tree species and soil conditions.
- Use caution not to over-fertilize fruit trees, as excessive nitrogen can lead to excessive vegetative growth at the expense of fruit production.
- Water the fruit tree thoroughly after applying fertilizer to help dissolve and distribute the nutrients into the soil.
- Adequate moisture is essential to ensure that the roots can absorb the nutrients from the fertilizer effectively.
- For established fruit trees, fertilize once a year in early spring, unless soil tests indicate a specific nutrient deficiency that requires additional fertilization.
- Young or newly planted fruit trees may benefit from lighter, more frequent applications of fertilizer during the first few years to support growth and establishment.
- Periodically conduct soil tests to assess nutrient levels and pH balance, as well as to determine the specific fertilizer needs of fruit trees.
- Adjust fertilization practices based on soil test results to ensure that fruit trees receive the appropriate nutrients for optimal growth and fruit production.
Instructions on pruning fruit trees:
Timing of Pruning:
Timing of Pruning:
- Prune fruit trees during the dormant season, typically in late winter to early spring before new growth begins.
- Avoid pruning fruit trees during periods of active growth or in late fall, as it may stimulate new growth that is vulnerable to winter damage.
- Use sharp, clean pruning tools, such as hand pruners, loppers, and pruning saws, to make clean cuts and minimize the risk of disease transmission.
- Disinfect pruning tools between each tree to prevent the spread of pathogens.
- Remove dead, diseased, or damaged branches to improve the overall health and appearance of the fruit tree.
- Thin out crowded or crossing branches to improve air circulation and sunlight penetration within the canopy.
- Shape the tree to promote an open, well-structured canopy that allows for even fruit production and easy harvesting.
- Begin by removing any dead, diseased, or broken branches, making clean cuts just outside the branch collar (the swollen area where the branch meets the trunk).
- Thin out excessive growth by selectively removing crowded or crossing branches to allow for better light and air distribution.
- Use heading cuts to prune back overly vigorous branches to encourage branching and promote fruiting wood formation.
- Consider the fruiting habit of the tree species when pruning, as some fruit trees produce fruit on spurs (short, stubby branches) while others bear fruit on new growth.
- Train young fruit trees by selectively pruning to establish a strong, well-balanced framework of scaffold branches.
- Encourage outward growth by pruning back inward-growing branches and removing competing leaders to maintain a central leader or open-center shape.
- Different fruit tree species may have specific pruning requirements based on their growth habits, fruiting patterns, and desired form.
- Research the specific pruning needs of the fruit tree species you are growing and tailor your pruning practices accordingly.
- Monitor the fruit tree throughout the growing season for any additional pruning needs, such as removing water sprouts or suckers that may develop.
- Regularly inspect the tree for signs of pests, diseases, or other issues that may require pruning intervention.
Instructions on pest management for fruit trees:
- Monitor for Pests:
- Regularly inspect fruit trees for signs of pest infestation, such as chewed leaves, distorted growth, or the presence of insects or larvae.
- Keep an eye out for common fruit tree pests, including aphids, scale insects, mites, caterpillars, and fruit flies.
- Cultural Practices:
- Maintain good cultural practices, such as proper pruning, watering, and fertilizing, to promote healthy, resilient fruit trees that are better able to withstand pest attacks.
- Remove and destroy any fallen fruit, leaves, or other plant debris that may harbor pests or disease pathogens.
- Natural Predators:
- Encourage natural predators of pests, such as ladybugs, lacewings, and predatory wasps, by providing habitat and avoiding the use of broad-spectrum pesticides that may harm beneficial insects.
- Plant flowering plants nearby to attract pollinators and beneficial insects that help control pest populations.
- Physical Barriers:
- Install physical barriers, such as tree wraps or trunk guards, to protect fruit trees from crawling pests like ants and rodents.
- Use floating row covers or netting to exclude flying insects, birds, and other pests from accessing fruit trees.
- Biological Control:
- Consider using biological control methods, such as releasing beneficial nematodes or predatory insects, to target specific pests while minimizing harm to non-target organisms.
- Introduce parasitic wasps, predatory mites, or other natural enemies of pest insects to help control populations without the need for chemical pesticides.
- Integrated Pest Management (IPM):
- Implement an integrated pest management (IPM) approach that combines multiple pest control strategies, including cultural, biological, physical, and chemical methods, to effectively manage pest populations while minimizing environmental impact.
- Monitor pest populations regularly and use thresholds to determine when intervention is necessary, prioritizing the use of non-chemical control methods whenever possible.
- Selective Pesticide Use:
- Use chemical pesticides as a last resort and only when non-chemical methods have proven ineffective or when pest populations exceed acceptable thresholds.
- Selectively choose pesticides that are least harmful to beneficial insects, pollinators, and the environment, and follow label instructions carefully to minimize risks to human health and the ecosystem.