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About
Citrus trees are one of the best parts of living in Southern California.
Lemons, Limes, Oranges, Mandarins, and Grapefruits are among the most popular fruit trees used in our beautiful state's landscapes and cuisines every day.
At Paradise Nursery, we grow citrus trees in 5, 15, and 25-gallon sizes in standard and semi-dwarf forms.
Standard trees have a single trunk with their canopy raised above the ground, and can grow over 15 feet tall. Semi-dwarf citrus trees can grow up to 15 feet tall and are pruned to grow with the canopy low to the ground, like a bush.
15-gallon is the most popular size for home orchards. They're about 3-5 ft tall with a 1-inch trunk when planted.
Smaller 5-gallon size are about 1-2 ft tall with a 1/2" caliper trunk. Larger 25 gallon / 24" Box sizes are typically 4-6 feet tall x 2 feet wide with a 2" trunk.
Most citrus trees are ripe in the winter. but some varieties are everbearing, or ripe in the summer. Plant lemons and lime near the BBQ and kitchen, create a home orchard, plant in containers, or just make an addition to your landscape.
Harvesting
To harvest the fruits of your labor, use pruning shears or sharp scissors to cut the stem close to the fruit, leaving a small piece of stem attached. Avoid pulling or twisting the fruit, as this can damage the fruit or the tree. Harvest when the fruit is at its peak ripeness, indicated by color and a slight softness to the touch. Most citrus trees produce spring flower blossoms in the late spring, and fruits are ripe in the winter and can stay on the tree into the following spring. Store citrus in a cool, dry place. Some varieties require refrigeration, while others do not.
Citrus Uses in Southern California Cuisine
Citrus fruits are used daily in Southern California. Whether it be in 5-star restaurants, hotels, or your own backyard. The most popular types of citrus are lemons, limes, oranges, mandarins, grapefruits, and kumquats. There are other specialty varieties, such as citron, Eureka lemons, Myer lemons, and Pink lemons. Eureka lemons are the most common lemons in Los Angeles. Eureka lemons are a staple in many dishes, including poultry, fish, and vegetible recipes. They're also a key ingredient in baking lemon bars, cakes, and pies, in addition to being useful for cleaning applications. Another popular variety is Meyer lemons, which have thin skin and a hint of sweetness. Pink lemons taste like the common Eureka lemon but have pink flesh and are beautifully variegated with leaves and skin on the fruit. Bears limes are the popular large Persian limes, but seedless. Mexican key limes are the smaller limes that are often seen yellow. Australian finger limes are long and thin, resembling a finger, with light green flesh that is caviar-sized and shaped. Kaffir limes are used in Thai cuisine.
The most popular iconic orange in Los Angeles is the Washington Navel Orange tree. The Valencia orange has thinner skin and is more tart, great for juicing. Moro blood oranges have red flesh and the most antioxidants. Cara cara oranges have pink flesh and have a very delicious, less acidic taste. Late lane navel oranges have a unique color and taste between cara cara orange and Washington navel orange. Honey and Tango mandarins are sweet, seedless, and easy to peel, marketed as Cutties in California when in season. Satsuma mandarins have puffy skin and little to no seeds. Dancy mandarins have a delicious, tangy-sweet flavor and few seeds. Kishu mini mandarins are the small, sweet, juicy mandarins found in Chinese salads. Page, Gold nugget, and Algerian mandarins are all sweet, juicy, and delicious.
Grapefruit trees grow relatively large. The Oroblanco produces the classic yellow skin, sweet and bitter flesh fruits. Rio red grapefruits have red flesh and blush on skin and a sweeter flavor. Ruby red is delicious, but a coastal variety. Pomelos are similar to grapefruits but less bitter. The Chandler pomelo tree produces yellow fruits, while the Valentine produces pink flesh fruits. Kumquat trees are relatively small. Nagami produces oblong-shaped fruits with tart flesh and sweet skin. The Meiwa produces fruits with sweet flesh and grows more slowly and stays smaller. At Paradise Nursery, we have some specialty citrus varieties like Sour oranges, Calamondin, Buddha's hand, Etrog, and Citrons.
Citrus trees spacing and size
In high-density and home orchards, plant citrus trees about 10 feet apart. Planting further apart or closer together will affect the number of trees in an orchard and their overall size.
Standard Citrus trees that are grown with a single trunk and the canopy raised above the ground can grow over 15 feet tall.
Semi-dwarf citrus trees can grow up to 15 feet tall, but can be kept smaller by spacing trees closer together, pruning, and restricting their growth through water or containers.
Plant citrus trees about 9 -12 feet apart from each other in home orchards. The tree's spacing will affect its overall size. Citrus trees need at least 5 hours of direct sunlight and well-draining soil for proper growth and fruit production.
Directions
Step One:
Soil and Planting: Plant in soil that drains well. Dig a hole that is as deep as the tree’s roots and at least twice as wide.
Step Two:
Place the tree in the hole and backfill around the plant’s roots with a mixture of the native soil and high-quality planting mix that has washed sand and organic fertilizer.
Step Three:
Create a basin around the roots drip zone so that water collects. Water deeply until the roots and nearby soil are saturated and reach field capacity.
Planting
To plant your tree, dig a hole twice as wide and as deep as the rootball container. Place the tree where the top of its roots are level with the ground and the trunk is at the center of the hole. Amend the soil you removed by combining it with a similar amount of planting mix. Use this soil mixture to backfill the hole and compact it. Build a wall around the base of the tree with the remaining soil left from the ground and spread a layer of planting mix directly above the plant's roots within the berm of the wall. Lastly, fill the area inside the ring with water until it's adequately saturated.
Full Sun Exposure:
- Most fruit trees thrive in full sun, which typically means they need at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day.
- Choose a planting location that receives ample sunlight throughout the day, preferably in a spot with southern or western exposure.
- Sunlight is essential for photosynthesis, the process by which plants convert sunlight into energy to fuel growth and fruit production.
- Adequate sunlight promotes healthy leaf development, flowering, and fruit ripening in fruit trees.
- Avoid planting fruit trees in areas with excessive shade from buildings, tall trees, or other structures, as this can inhibit growth and reduce fruit production.
- Trees planted in shaded areas may produce fewer fruits, have slower growth rates, and be more susceptible to diseases and pests.
- Ensure that fruit trees are spaced appropriately to allow sunlight to reach all parts of the tree, including the canopy, branches, and fruiting spurs.
- Prune surrounding trees or shrubs that may shade fruit trees and obstruct sunlight.
- Monitor changes in sunlight exposure throughout the year, as seasonal variations in sun angle and tree foliage can affect light availability.
- Adjust planting locations or prune surrounding vegetation as needed to maintain optimal sunlight exposure for fruit trees.
Watering
Proper watering is one of the most important factors that determine a citrus tree's overall health and fruit production.
The first element to take into consideration is frequency. Temperature, humidity, wind speed, soil type, and plant health can all affect how frequently you should be watering. Best practices are to provide water once per week in the early spring and then twice per week in late spring. Increase the frequency in the summer and reduce it in the fall and winter.
The second factor to take into consideration is the amount of water you provide to your plants. The amount of water you should provide depends on the tree's size, soil type, and moisture. Generally, a 5-gallon size requires 3-5 gallons of water every irrigation session. 15-gallon sizes need 10-15 gallons of water, and larger trees need more.
Automatic irrigation systems increase efficiency by ensuring consistent watering times and amounts by reducing operator error. The duration a system should run depends on the flow rate. To determine your flow rate, collect the water over a set timeframe, or use a 2-4 GPM bubbler. Bubblers are very commonly used for fruit trees, but people also use drip and sprinkler systems.
Instructions on watering fruit trees:
Establishment Period:
- During the first year after planting, fruit trees require regular watering to establish strong root systems.
- Water newly planted fruit trees deeply and frequently, providing enough moisture to keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged.
Frequency of Watering:
- In general, fruit trees should be watered deeply once or twice a week, depending on soil type, weather conditions, and tree species.
- Adjust the frequency of watering based on rainfall, temperature, and soil moisture levels to prevent both under-watering and over-watering.
Watering Depth:
- Water fruit trees deeply to encourage deep root growth and drought tolerance.
- Apply water slowly and evenly to ensure that it penetrates the soil to a depth of at least 12 to 18 inches.
Watering Technique:
- Use drip irrigation, soaker hoses, or watering bags to deliver water directly to the root zone of fruit trees, minimizing water loss through evaporation and runoff.
- Avoid overhead watering, as it can promote fungal diseases and waste water by spraying foliage instead of reaching the root system.
Timing of Watering:
- Water fruit trees in the early morning or late afternoon to reduce water loss through evaporation and minimize stress on the trees during the hottest part of the day.
- Avoid watering fruit trees during windy or extremely hot conditions, as water may evaporate quickly before it can be absorbed by the roots.
Monitoring Soil Moisture:
- Monitor soil moisture regularly by checking soil moisture levels with a moisture meter or by conducting a simple soil moisture test using your finger.
- Adjust watering practices based on soil moisture levels and weather conditions to ensure that fruit trees receive adequate moisture throughout the growing season.
Drought Conditions:
- During periods of drought or prolonged dry spells, increase the frequency and duration of watering to prevent drought stress and maintain tree health.
- Consider applying a layer of mulch around the base of fruit trees to conserve soil moisture and reduce water loss through evaporation.
By following these watering instructions, you can help ensure that your fruit trees receive the moisture they need to thrive and produce healthy, abundant fruit.
Fertilizing
"NPK" stands for NITROGEN, PHOSPHORUS & POTASSIUM. These are the three main macronutrients required by plants to grow. The amounts of each nutrient are represented numerically on the label. Apply a fertilizer with equal NPK or a higher ratio of Nitrogen to phosphorus and potassium in the spring to promote plant growth. Use a fertilizer with a higher ratio of phosphorus and potassium to nitrogen in the winter or before plants flower to improve yields. Use 8-4-4 every 3 months from spring (March-April) through the fall. Use 3-12-12 Harvest Booster before plants flower or during winter dormancy (December-January). Apply 1 cup (150 grams) for every 1-inch diameter of the trunk, for a 15-gallon size. Apply 2 cups (300 grams) for every 2-inch diameter of the trunk or 25-gallon size.
To apply fertilizer, till the top layer of the soil to create a ring/berm/wall around the trunk. Spread fertilizer above the roots, avoiding the trunk, and provide water to incorporate the fertilizer into the soil.
Pruning
The size and shape of your citrus trees will depend on the cuts you've made in the past, which will also determine the tree's future growth. To effectively prune your citrus trees, first, you'll need to locate the tree's main trunk starting from the ground and lateral branches. Remove any dry branches, twigs, leaves, suckers, or water sprouts. Try to create an open center and balanced, symmetrical canopy.
You could also "Top" the plant. This is when you cut the main trunk of the plant early on to promote lateral growth instead of vertical growth. This is advantageous for fruit production because it will often provide larger yields.
Instructions on pruning fruit trees:
Timing of Pruning:
- Prune fruit trees during the dormant season, typically in late winter to early spring before new growth begins.
- Avoid pruning fruit trees during periods of active growth or in late fall, as it may stimulate new growth that is vulnerable to winter damage.
Tools and Equipment:
- Use sharp, clean pruning tools, such as hand pruners, loppers, and pruning saws, to make clean cuts and minimize the risk of disease transmission.
- Disinfect pruning tools between each tree to prevent the spread of pathogens.
Objectives of Pruning:
- Remove dead, diseased, or damaged branches to improve the overall health and appearance of the fruit tree.
- Thin out crowded or crossing branches to improve air circulation and sunlight penetration within the canopy.
- Shape the tree to promote an open, well-structured canopy that allows for even fruit production and easy harvesting.
Pruning Techniques:
- Begin by removing any dead, diseased, or broken branches, making clean cuts just outside the branch collar (the swollen area where the branch meets the trunk).
- Thin out excessive growth by selectively removing crowded or crossing branches to allow for better light and air distribution.
- Use heading cuts to prune back overly vigorous branches to encourage branching and promote fruiting wood formation.
- Consider the fruiting habit of the tree species when pruning, as some fruit trees produce fruit on spurs (short, stubby branches) while others bear fruit on new growth.
Training Young Trees:
- Train young fruit trees by selectively pruning to establish a strong, well-balanced framework of scaffold branches.
- Encourage outward growth by pruning back inward-growing branches and removing competing leaders to maintain a central leader or open-center shape.
Considerations for Different Tree Species:
- Different fruit tree species may have specific pruning requirements based on their growth habits, fruiting patterns, and desired form.
- Research the specific pruning needs of the fruit tree species you are growing and tailor your pruning practices accordingly.
Monitoring and Maintenance:
- Monitor the fruit tree throughout the growing season for any additional pruning needs, such as removing water sprouts or suckers that may develop.
- Regularly inspect the tree for signs of pests, diseases, or other issues that may require pruning intervention.
By following these pruning instructions, you can help maintain the health, productivity, and appearance of your fruit trees for optimal growth and fruit production.
Instructions on pest management for fruit trees:
- Monitor for Pests:
- Regularly inspect fruit trees for signs of pest infestation, such as chewed leaves, distorted growth, or the presence of insects or larvae.
- Keep an eye out for common fruit tree pests, including aphids, scale insects, mites, caterpillars, and fruit flies.
- Cultural Practices:
- Maintain good cultural practices, such as proper pruning, watering, and fertilizing, to promote healthy, resilient fruit trees that are better able to withstand pest attacks.
- Remove and destroy any fallen fruit, leaves, or other plant debris that may harbor pests or disease pathogens.
- Natural Predators:
- Encourage natural predators of pests, such as ladybugs, lacewings, and predatory wasps, by providing habitat and avoiding the use of broad-spectrum pesticides that may harm beneficial insects.
- Plant flowering plants nearby to attract pollinators and beneficial insects that help control pest populations.
- Physical Barriers:
- Install physical barriers, such as tree wraps or trunk guards, to protect fruit trees from crawling pests like ants and rodents.
- Use floating row covers or netting to exclude flying insects, birds, and other pests from accessing fruit trees.
- Biological Control:
- Consider using biological control methods, such as releasing beneficial nematodes or predatory insects, to target specific pests while minimizing harm to non-target organisms.
- Introduce parasitic wasps, predatory mites, or other natural enemies of pest insects to help control populations without the need for chemical pesticides.
- Integrated Pest Management (IPM):
- Implement an integrated pest management (IPM) approach that combines multiple pest control strategies, including cultural, biological, physical, and chemical methods, to effectively manage pest populations while minimizing environmental impact.
- Monitor pest populations regularly and use thresholds to determine when intervention is necessary, prioritizing the use of non-chemical control methods whenever possible.
- Selective Pesticide Use:
- Use chemical pesticides as a last resort and only when non-chemical methods have proven ineffective or when pest populations exceed acceptable thresholds.
- Selectively choose pesticides that are least harmful to beneficial insects, pollinators, and the environment, and follow label instructions carefully to minimize risks to human health and the ecosystem.