Plant Description Planting Location Watering Fertilizing Pruning Pests FAQ

Citrus trees, such as lemon, lime, orange, mandarin, and grapefruit, are revered for their fresh flavors throughout the neighborhoods and cuisines of Los Angeles. We carry a multitude of varieties so you can find the perfect tree for your home. 


Container sizes:

We grow citrus trees in 5, 15, and 25 gallon size containers. 

15-gallon size citrus trees are the most popular and are about 3-5 ft tall with a 1-inch trunk. 

5-gallon size trees are about 1-2 ft tall with a 1/2” trunk.

25-gallon size trees are typically 3.5-6 feet tall x 2 feet wide with a 2” trunk.


Tree types:

Our trees are available in standard and semi-dwarf forms.

Standard trees have a single trunk with their canopy raised above the ground, and can grow up to 25 feet tall. 

Semi-dwarf citrus trees grow up to 15 feet tall and are pruned to grow like a bush. 

Note: Regardless of whether you buy a standard or semi-dwarf, citrus trees can be kept smaller by planting multiple close together or by pruning them. 


When will my tree’s fruit be ripe?

Most citrus trees’ fruits are ripe in winter and stay ripe through spring. Some varieties are everbearing; and some ripen in summer.

Instructions  How to plant citrus trees:

Plant citrus trees in an area that receives over 6 hours of direct sunlight per day, in well-draining soil. Plant about 10 feet apart for home or high-density orchards. Spacing when planting will affect the overall size and shape of the trees. 

Citrus Tree Planting Directions 

Step 1) Dig a hole twice as wide as the tree's potted container.

Step 2) Mix half the soil removed from the ground with the same amount of planting mix

Step 3) Remove the tree from the pot and place it in the center of the hole with the top of its soil level with the ground or slightly above ground.

Step 4) Backfill the hole with the amended soil and compact

Step 5) Use the remaining soil to create a bermed ring around the tree

Step 6) Topdress with fertilizer

Step 7) Water in the tree

Proper watering is one of the most important factors that determine a citrus tree's overall health and fruit production.

Frequency

Best practices are to provide water once per week in the early spring and then twice per week in late spring. Increase the frequency in the summer and reduce it in the fall and winter. 

Quantity

The amount of water you should provide depends on the tree's size, soil type, and moisture. Generally, a 5-gallon size requires 3-5 gallons of water every irrigation session. 15-gallon sizes need 10-15 gallons of water, and larger trees need more.

Automatic Irrigation

Automatic irrigation systems increase efficiency by ensuring consistent watering times and amounts by reducing operator error. The duration a system should run depends on the flow rate. To determine your flow rate, collect the water over a set timeframe, or use a 2-4 GPM bubbler. Bubblers are very commonly used for fruit trees, but people also use drip and sprinkler systems.

By following these watering instructions, you can help ensure that your fruit trees receive the moisture they need to thrive and produce abundant, healthy fruit.

Fertilizing

Fertilizers are the elemental nutrients citrus trees need to grow and produce fruit.

"NPK" (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium) are the 3 macronutrients used most by plants. Numerically represented as a percentage on the fertilizer package label.

Nitrogen is mainly used in growth

 Apply a fertilizer with equal NPK or a higher ratio of Nitrogen to phosphorus and potassium in the spring to promote plant growth. Use a fertilizer with a higher ratio of phosphorus and potassium to nitrogen in the winter or before plants flower to improve yields. Use 8-4-4 every 3 months from spring (March-April) through the fall. Use 3-12-12 Harvest Booster before plants flower or during winter dormancy (December-January). Apply 1 cup (150 grams) for every 1-inch diameter of the trunk, for a 15-gallon size. Apply 2 cups (300 grams) for every 2-inch diameter of the trunk or 25-gallon size. 

To apply fertilizer, till the top layer of the soil to create a ring/berm/wall around the trunk. Spread fertilizer above the roots, avoiding the trunk, and provide water to incorporate the fertilizer into the soil.

 

Pruning

The size and shape of your citrus trees will depend on the cuts you've made in the past, which will also determine the tree's future growth. To effectively prune your citrus trees, first, you'll need to locate the tree's main trunk starting from the ground and lateral branches. Remove any dry branches, twigs, leaves, suckers, or water sprouts. Try to create an open center and balanced, symmetrical canopy.

You could also "Top" the plant. This is when you cut the main trunk of the plant early on to promote lateral growth instead of vertical growth. This is advantageous for fruit production because it will often provide larger yields.

Harvesting

To harvest the fruits of your labor, use pruning shears or sharp scissors to cut the stem close to the fruit, leaving a small piece of stem attached. Avoid pulling or twisting the fruit, as this can damage the fruit or the tree. Harvest when the fruit is at its peak ripeness, indicated by color and a slight softness to the touch. Most citrus trees produce spring flower blossoms in the late spring, and fruits are ripe in the winter and can stay on the tree into the following spring. Store citrus in a cool, dry place. Some varieties require refrigeration, while others do not.

Instructions on pest management for fruit trees:

  • Monitor for Pests:
    • Regularly inspect fruit trees for signs of pest infestation, such as chewed leaves, distorted growth, or the presence of insects or larvae.
    • Keep an eye out for common fruit tree pests, including aphids, scale insects, mites, caterpillars, and fruit flies.
  • Cultural Practices:
    • Maintain good cultural practices, such as proper pruning, watering, and fertilizing, to promote healthy, resilient fruit trees that are better able to withstand pest attacks.
    • Remove and destroy any fallen fruit, leaves, or other plant debris that may harbor pests or disease pathogens.
  • Natural Predators:
    • Encourage natural predators of pests, such as ladybugs, lacewings, and predatory wasps, by providing habitat and avoiding the use of broad-spectrum pesticides that may harm beneficial insects.
    • Plant flowering plants nearby to attract pollinators and beneficial insects that help control pest populations.
  • Physical Barriers:
    • Install physical barriers, such as tree wraps or trunk guards, to protect fruit trees from crawling pests like ants and rodents.
    • Use floating row covers or netting to exclude flying insects, birds, and other pests from accessing fruit trees.
  • Biological Control:
    • Consider using biological control methods, such as releasing beneficial nematodes or predatory insects, to target specific pests while minimizing harm to non-target organisms.
    • Introduce parasitic wasps, predatory mites, or other natural enemies of pest insects to help control populations without the need for chemical pesticides.
  • Integrated Pest Management (IPM):
    • Implement an integrated pest management (IPM) approach that combines multiple pest control strategies, including cultural, biological, physical, and chemical methods, to effectively manage pest populations while minimizing environmental impact.
    • Monitor pest populations regularly and use thresholds to determine when intervention is necessary, prioritizing the use of non-chemical control methods whenever possible.
  • Selective Pesticide Use:
    • Use chemical pesticides as a last resort and only when non-chemical methods have proven ineffective or when pest populations exceed acceptable thresholds.
    • Selectively choose pesticides that are least harmful to beneficial insects, pollinators, and the environment, and follow label instructions carefully to minimize risks to human health and the ecosystem.
By following these pest management practices, you can help protect your fruit trees from pest damage while promoting a healthy and sustainable orchard ecosystem.

Frequently Asked Questions About Citrus Trees

1. How much sun do citrus trees need?

Citrus trees require full sun—at least 6 to 8 hours per day. In warm climates, extra sunlight improves sweetness and fruit color. Indoor citrus should be placed in a south-facing window or under grow lights.

2. What soil and pH are best for citrus?

Citrus grows best in well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0–6.5. In clay soils, plant on a mound to improve drainage. Containers should use fast-draining citrus or cactus mix.

3. How do I plant a citrus tree correctly?

Dig a hole the depth of the root ball and 2–3 times wider. Keep the graft union above soil level, backfill with native soil, water deeply, and form a watering basin around the tree. Plant in early spring after frost risk.

4. How far apart should I plant citrus trees?

Standard citrus trees should be spaced 12 feet apart, while dwarf or semi-dwarf trees can be spaced 8–10 feet apart. This prevents overcrowding and ensures good air circulation.

5. When is the best time to plant citrus in California?

The ideal time is early spring once frost danger has passed. This gives the roots time to establish before summer heat. Avoid late fall plantings in frost-prone areas.

6. How often should I water citrus trees in the ground?

In summer, water deeply every 7–10 days. In cooler seasons, water less frequently. Adjust based on soil type—sandy soils need more frequent watering, while clay soils need less.

7. What about watering newly planted citrus trees?

New citrus trees need more frequent irrigation—every 3–7 days depending on temperature and soil. Keep the root ball moist but not waterlogged for the first year.

8. How deep are citrus roots?

Most citrus roots are in the top 24 inches of soil. Deep watering should penetrate this zone to promote healthy root development without waterlogging deeper layers.

9. Should I mulch citrus trees?

Yes—apply 2–4 inches of mulch to retain soil moisture, regulate temperature, and reduce weeds. Keep mulch several inches away from the trunk to prevent disease.

10. How and when should I fertilize citrus?

Feed 3–4 times per year between late winter and mid-summer with a citrus-specific fertilizer containing nitrogen and micronutrients. Avoid fertilizing in late fall.

11. Why are my citrus leaves yellow?

Yellow leaves may indicate nitrogen deficiency, overwatering, or poor drainage. If veins remain green with yellow between, the tree may be lacking iron. Adjust watering and apply balanced fertilizer.

12. Do citrus trees need pruning?

Minimal pruning is required. Remove dead wood, crossing branches, suckers from below the graft, and water sprouts. Light shaping is best in late winter to spring.

13. How do I prevent sunburn on citrus branches?

After pruning, protect exposed branches with a whitewash (interior white latex paint diluted 1:1 with water). This prevents sunburn and bark cracking.

14. Do citrus trees need pollination partners?

Most citrus trees are self-pollinating and do not need a second tree. Bee activity, however, can improve yields.

15. Why do flowers or small fruit drop?

Fruit drop, often called "June drop," is natural. Trees shed excess fruit in late spring. Stress from heat, water fluctuations, or nutrient issues can increase drop.

16. When will my citrus tree produce fruit?

Lemons and limes may fruit in 1–3 years. Oranges, grapefruits, and mandarins typically take 3–5 years to bear well.

17. How long does fruit take to ripen?

Ripening time varies: lemons take 4–6 months, while oranges may take up to a year. Taste fruit rather than relying on color alone, as citrus can remain green but still be ripe.

18. How should I water container citrus?

Water when the top 2–3 inches of soil are dry. In warm weather, containers may need daily watering. Ensure pots drain freely.

19. How often should I repot a citrus tree?

Repot every 2–3 years, refreshing the soil and pruning circling roots. Step up to a slightly larger pot as the tree grows.

20. How do I prevent root and crown rot?

Keep water away from the trunk and graft union. Plant on mounds in heavy soil and ensure good drainage. Never bury the crown.

21. How cold-hardy are citrus trees?

Kumquats and satsumas are the hardiest, tolerating brief dips into the mid-20s°F. Lemons and limes are the most frost-sensitive, often damaged below 30°F.

22. What causes curled, scribbled leaves?

This is citrus leafminer damage. It’s mostly cosmetic on mature trees. Young trees may require treatment during new flushes of growth.

23. What is the black coating on leaves and fruit?

This is sooty mold growing on honeydew secreted by insects like aphids or scale. Control the insects and ants that farm them to eliminate the mold.

24. What common pests affect citrus?

Aphids, scale, mites, thrips, and citrus leafminer are common. Integrated Pest Management (IPM) using horticultural oils and beneficial insects is recommended.

25. What is HLB (citrus greening)?

HLB is a deadly disease spread by the Asian Citrus Psyllid. There is no cure. Buy only from certified nurseries and never transport citrus trees across counties.

26. Should I seal pruning cuts?

No. Sealants are unnecessary and can trap moisture. Make clean cuts just outside the branch collar and allow natural healing.

27. Why do my fruits taste sour?

Sour fruit can result from variety genetics, insufficient heat, shade, or nutrient imbalance. Oranges in cool coastal areas may stay less sweet.

28. Should I let grass grow under citrus?

No. Keep a weed-free zone under the canopy to prevent nutrient and water competition. Mulching is recommended instead.

29. What irrigation system works best?

Drip irrigation or micro-sprayers are ideal. Place emitters away from the trunk and expand coverage as the tree grows.

30. How do I test my soil drainage?

Dig a hole, fill with water, and see how quickly it drains. Good soils drain within 24–36 hours. If water stands longer, plant citrus on a mound.

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